Bob the duck - or the difference between a wave in deep and shallow water
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Watch Bob's journey as waves pass by him and learn how waves in deep water only transfer energy, while when waves break in shallow water they transfer energy and matter.
![A wave in deep water ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
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Bob the duck - or the difference between a wave in deep and shallow water
- 1. A wave in deep water Waves in deep water transfer energy , but not matter . You can see this if you watch a duck’s movement as a wave passes by.
- 6. A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now energy AND matter will be transported. That means that anything sitting on the wave when it breaks will be carried forward towards the beach.
- 7. A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now energy AND matter will be transported. That means that anything sitting on the wave when it breaks will be carried forward towards the beach.
- 8. Think I’m talking nonsense by referring to a surfing duck? Think again … That ‘anything’ includes, of course, any ducks who happen to be out surfing that day.